How to Prune Apple Trees

Pruning apple trees keeps them healthy, productive and a manageable size. It looks complicated, but once you understand the basics, it becomes straightforward.

When to prune

Prune apple trees in winter when they are dormant, typically between November and early March. Avoid pruning in autumn when wounds heal slowly and disease can enter, and do not prune when frost is forecast.

Late winter (February to early March) is often ideal – the tree is still dormant but spring is not far away, so wounds heal quickly.

Tools you need

• Sharp secateurs for small branches
• Loppers for medium branches
• A pruning saw for larger branches
• Clean tools to avoid spreading disease

The four Ds: what to remove first

Start by removing the four Ds:

• Dead: Any dead wood, which is usually darker and brittle.
• Diseased: Branches with canker, mildew or other problems.
• Damaged: Broken or rubbing branches.
• Duplicated: Branches that cross or grow parallel to each other.

Removing these opens up the tree and makes it easier to see what else needs doing.

Creating an open centre

The aim is a goblet or wine-glass shape with an open centre. This lets light and air into the tree, which improves fruit quality and reduces disease.

1. Remove any branches growing into the centre of the tree.
2. Take out any strongly upright shoots (water sprouts) growing from the main branches.
3. Aim for 4-5 main branches radiating outwards from the trunk.

Shortening branches

To encourage fruiting and keep the tree compact:

• Shorten the previous year's growth on main branches by about a third.
• Cut to an outward-facing bud to encourage the branch to grow outwards.
• On side shoots (laterals), cut back to 4-6 buds to encourage fruit spurs.

How much to remove

As a general rule, do not remove more than a quarter of the tree's growth in one year. Heavy pruning stimulates lots of leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

If a tree is badly overgrown, spread the work over 2-3 years rather than doing it all at once.

Young trees vs established trees

Young trees (1-4 years): Focus on creating the basic framework. Choose 4-5 well-spaced main branches and remove competing growth. Light pruning only.

Established trees: Maintain the shape, remove the four Ds, and thin out congested growth. More pruning is needed to keep the tree productive.

Common mistakes

• Pruning too hard: Stimulates excessive leafy growth and delays fruiting.
• Leaving stubs: Cut close to the branch collar, not leaving a long stub that will die back.
• Pruning at the wrong time: Summer pruning is for trained forms like espaliers, not free-standing trees.
• Ignoring disease: Always remove cankered wood and dispose of it away from the tree.